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Lot Essay
The present watch is an extremely appealing example of haute joaillerie wristwatch by Rolex. The sheer weight of this platinum timepiece is impressive, and conveys an impression of absolute solidity and exclusivity. The dial is mesmerizing: the iridescent mother-of-pearl dances and flutters according to how light strikes the piece, this playful effect underlined and boosted by the sparkle of the diamond-set numerals. The bezel is stunning and technically highly complex. If it was set with brilliant-cut diamonds, the setting operation would be relatively simple, but the metal background would be visible through the gaps between the stones. In this instance, however, the bezel is fitted with what is usually (incorrectly) defined baguette-cut diamond. However, elementary geometry shows that two concentric circles, such as the inner and outer rim of the bezel, necessarily have different circumferences: the outer is longer than the inner. Consequently, baguette-cut diamonds would be impossible to fit into a bezel: they would align in a straight line. Instead, taper-cut stones are used: very similar to baguette-cut ones, but with one side shorter than the other. This allows mounting them in the circular bezel without the slightest gap in between the stones. Of course, each stone must be carefully and specifically cut in order to achieve perfect fit with the other ones. This painstaking procedure allows for a continuous diamond bezel which is as enthralling as it is complex to realize.