Wearable works of art: what happens when artists design handbags

The interplay between art and fashion is a longstanding phenomenon – think Salvador Dalí’s collaboration with fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, or the 1965 Yves Saint Laurent collection inspired by the work of Piet Mondrian. Nowhere else is this relationship more evident than in collaborations between artists and the great handbag labels.

Stephen Sprouse

The emergence of the It Bag was in no small measure due to the influence of Louis Vuitton creative director Marc Jacobs, who held the position from 1997 to 2014. A collector himself, Jacobs brought his passion for art — as well as his tendency to take risks — to the Vuitton runway.

For the 2001 Spring Runway show, Jacobs tasked artist Stephen Sprouse with ‘defacing’ the monogrammed canvas for an exclusive line of Grafitti accessories. Jacobs told Harper’s Bazaar he was inspired by the irreverence of Marcel Duchamp, who famously reproduced the Mona Lisa with the addition of a moustache and goatee. The success of this collaboration laid the foundations for Jacobs’ creative freedom at Louis Vuitton — and for more artist collaborations to follow.

Takashi Murakami

The best known artist collaboration Louis Vuitton embarked upon under Jacobs was with Japanese artist Takashi Murakami. Jacobs’ approach to Murakami resulted in the ‘Multicolore’, featuring the artist’s signature cheerful colour palette on a clean white background and appeared in the inaugural collection runway show in 2003. These limited-edition handbags bridged the world of contemporary art and fashion, and are extremely collectible today.

In late 2024, to celebrate the 20th anniversary of this influential collaboration, Louis Vuitton announced a re-edition of Murakami's range would launch on 1 January 2025.

Yayoi Kusama

Few partnerships have sparked as much interest among art and fashion enthusiasts as the collaboration between Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama and Louis Vuitton. This collaboration, which began in 2012, represents the intersection of contemporary art and high fashion, highlighting the symbiotic relationship between artistic expression and luxury craftsmanship.

At its core is the iconic Pumpkin bag, inspired by the artist’s iconic Pumpkin sculptures. Kusama’s partnership with Louis Vuitton is so significant that the collaboration offers insight into the evolving landscape of fashion partnerships and the enduring impact of art on the luxury market.

Jeff Koons

With his penchant for exploring the relationship between art and consumerism, Jeff Koons was perhaps an obvious choice for a collaboration with Vuitton. Koons created an exclusive line of handbags and accessories emblazoned with masterpieces, bringing the museum experience into the consumer’s closet. The addition of the artist’s name across the front of the bags invited the collector to consider the work anew.

Nigel Peake

In 2018 Hermès teamed up with the architect, illustrator and artist Nigel Peake, who had already created the On a Summer Day Constance bag and scarves for the house. Known for his geometric designs and use of vibrant colours, Peake devised the vibrant One Two Three & Away We Go Birkin, inspired by the Roue de Paris ferris wheel on the Place de la Concorde in Paris. Peake also created a silk scarf — or carré — with the same moniker.

Tom Sachs

Among the most exciting developments in the handbag auction market is the introduction of one-of-a-kind pieces that have been customised by contemporary artists. The Hermès Kelly is arguably the most influential bag in the world, inspiring countless designers over the decades since its initial introduction as the ‘Sac à dépêches’ in 1935.

In this unique artwork artist Tom Sachs has given a second life to a 1996 Hermès Gold Kelly. The Nasa Kelly was privately commissioned to be sold at a charity auction in 2009. In June 2018 Christie’s sold this unique, wearable work of art for £40,000.

Supreme

Under the creative watch of Kim Jones, Louis Vuitton teamed up with skateboard brand Supreme, incorporating its bold red and white branding and logo. The limited one-off collection was dropped in a few select Louis Vuitton stores and pop-ups, and the Louis Vuitton x Supreme pieces quickly became some of the most sought-after in the world.

Yohei Yama

Japanese artist Yohei Yama is best known for his photography and paintings. The miniature trees rendered on this Kelly 35 are an oft-repeated motif in his works — a reaction to the Fukushima nuclear disaster of 2011.

In November 2018, Christie’s offered Yama’s Cosmic Ray #12 in an Asian contemporary art sale. In the same auction season, Christie’s also offered his artistic interpretation of an Orange Togo leather Kelly 35 painted with miniature trees. Yama has added his signature to the interior of the bag.